Concealed Cabinet Hinges
Concealed cabinet hinges, also called European or cup hinges, sit inside the cabinet where you cannot see them: a 35 mm cup set into a hole in the back of the door, and an arm that clips onto a mounting plate screwed to the cabinet side. They are the standard hinge for frameless cabinets made from MDF, plywood and melamine. Screws on the arm adjust the door in three directions after it is hung, so every gap can be made even.
Overlay: full, half and inset
| Hinge | Door position | Typical overlay | Used for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full overlay (straight arm) | Covers the whole front edge of the side | 16–18 mm (5/8–11/16 in) | Single cabinets, the ends of a run |
| Half overlay (slight crank) | Covers half of a shared side | 8–9 mm (5/16 in) | Two doors on one partition |
| Inset (deep crank) | Inside the cabinet, flush with the front | 0 | Traditional and shaker cabinets |
The overlay is how far the door covers the cabinet side. It is set by the arm of the hinge and the thickness of the mounting plate, so buy the hinge and the plate together and check the maker's chart.
Opening angle and features
| Type | Opening | Where |
|---|---|---|
| Standard | 107–110° | Most cabinet doors |
| Narrow | 95° | Doors that would hit a wall |
| Wide | 120–170° | Corner cabinets, doors that must open flat |
| Blind corner / bi-fold | Special | Corner cabinets, lazy Susan doors |
| Soft close | Built in or a clip-on damper | Closes the door slowly and quietly |
| Push to open | With a touch latch | Handleless doors |
Frameless or face frame?
European hinges are made for frameless cabinets, where the plate screws to the inside of the cabinet side. Face-frame cabinets need face-frame plates or compact hinges that screw to the back of the frame.
How to install concealed hinges
- Mark the hinge positions on the back of the door, 3–4 in (75–100 mm) from the top and the bottom, and between them on tall doors.
- Drill the cup holes: 35 mm Forstner bit, 12–13 mm deep, the edge of the hole 3–6 mm from the door edge. A hinge jig or a drill press with a fence keeps every hole the same.
- Fit the hinges square to the door edge and screw them in, or press in the dowel type.
- Screw the mounting plates to the cabinet side, usually 37 mm from the front edge on the same line as the hinges. On a 32 mm system cabinet the holes are already drilled.
- Clip the door on and adjust the side, height and depth screws until the gaps are even, about 2–3 mm. See how to adjust cabinet hinges.
Drill the plate holes before you assemble the cabinet: it is far easier on a flat panel. For the other kinds of cabinet hinge, see cabinet hinge types.
Building doors for concealed hinges
Slab doors from 18 mm (3/4 in) MDF or plywood take concealed hinges directly; shaker doors need stiles at least 2 in (50 mm) wide so the cup clears the panel groove. Our cabinet plans size each door for full-overlay hinges with a 3 mm gap:
Frequently asked questions
What size hole do concealed hinges need?
A 35 mm (1 3/8 in) hole about 12–13 mm (1/2 in) deep, drilled with a Forstner bit. Its edge sits 3–6 mm from the edge of the door, so the centre is about 21–23 mm in.
How do I choose full overlay, half overlay or inset hinges?
Full overlay when the door covers the whole front edge of the cabinet side, half overlay when two doors share one partition, and inset when the door sits inside the cabinet, flush with the front.
How many hinges does a cabinet door need?
Two up to about 36 in (900 mm) tall, three up to 60 in (1500 mm), four up to 80 in (2000 mm) and five above that. Heavy or wide doors get one more.
Do I need a jig for concealed hinges?
It makes the job faster and repeatable: a hinge jig holds a 35 mm bit square to the door at the right distance from the edge and the right depth. A drill press with a fence and a depth stop does the same.