How to Use a Router
To use a router, fit the bit, set the depth, clamp the work, start the router clear of the wood, then move it steadily against the rotation of the bit: left to right along an edge in front of you, counterclockwise around the outside of a board. Make deep cuts in two or three shallow passes, guide the router with its bearing, an edge guide or a clamped straightedge, and let the bit stop before you lift it off.
Types of router
| Router | Best for |
|---|---|
| Trim (compact) router | Edges, roundovers, trimming edge banding and laminate; light and one-handed |
| Fixed-base router | Edges and profiles at a set depth; fits a router table |
| Plunge router | Dadoes, grooves, mortises and stopped cuts: it lowers into the wood while running |
| Combo kit | One motor with both a fixed and a plunge base |
Router bits
| Bit | Cut | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Straight | Flat-bottomed slot | Dadoes, grooves, rabbets with a guide |
| Spiral up- or down-cut | Clean slot | Grooves in plywood, mortises |
| Flush-trim (bearing) | Copies a template | Templates, trimming edge banding and veneer |
| Roundover | Rounded edge | Softening the edges of shelves and tops |
| Chamfer | 45° bevel | Edges, decorative bevels |
| Rabbet (bearing) | Step on an edge | Cabinet backs, box corners |
| Rail and stile set | Matching profiles | Shaker and raised-panel doors on a table |
Use bits with a 1/2 in shank if the router takes them: they are stiffer and safer than 1/4 in shanks.
Step by step
- Unplug the router and fit the bit: push it in fully, then pull it back about 1/16 in, and tighten the collet.
- Set the depth: 1/4 in (6 mm) or less per pass in hardwood. Test on an offcut.
- Clamp the work to the bench, with nothing under the path of the bit.
- Hold the router with both hands, rest the base on the wood with the bit clear of it, and switch on.
- Feed against the rotation: along an outside edge, move counterclockwise round the board; inside a frame, clockwise. A steady speed gives a clean cut; too slow burns, too fast tears.
- Finish the pass, keep the base flat, switch off and wait for the bit to stop before lifting.
Routing dadoes and grooves
For a dado or rabbet, clamp a straight board across the panel as a fence, at the distance between the edge of the router base and the edge of the bit. Use a straight bit the width of the board, or a smaller bit in two passes, and cut in passes no deeper than 1/4 in. Plywood is often thinner than its name, so test the fit on an offcut first.
How to use a router table
On a router table the router hangs upside down under the top and the bit spins the other way, so feed the wood from right to left against the fence. Use featherboards to hold the work against the fence and the table, push blocks for small pieces, and never put the work between the bit and the fence. Raise the bit in small steps and take light passes, exactly as by hand.
Safety
- Wear eye and ear protection and connect dust extraction: MDF dust is fine and harmful.
- Keep both hands on the router and the cord behind it.
- Never start or stop the router with the bit touching the wood.
- Unplug it before changing bits.
Our shaker cabinet door plan gives the sizes for doors you can make with a router and a table:
Frequently asked questions
Which direction do you move a router?
Against the rotation of the bit. Hand-held, that is left to right along an edge in front of you, counterclockwise around the outside of a board and clockwise inside a frame or cut-out. On a router table, feed the wood from right to left against the fence.
How deep can a router cut in one pass?
About 1/4 in (6 mm) in hardwood with a 1/2 in bit, a little more in softwood and MDF. For deeper dadoes and rabbets, make two or three passes, lowering the bit each time.
What router bits do I need first?
A straight bit for dadoes and grooves, a flush-trim bit for templates and edge banding, a roundover bit for soft edges and a rabbet bit for backs. Buy 1/2 in shank bits when your router takes them: they vibrate less.
Is a router table worth it?
For small parts, narrow mouldings, raised panels and shaker door joints, yes: the work moves past a fixed bit, which is safer and more accurate. For big panels and sheets, the hand-held router is easier.