How to Use a Pocket Hole Jig

A pocket hole jig drills a steep, angled hole into the face of one board so a screw can pull it tight against another. Set the jig and the drill collar for the board thickness, clamp the jig, drill, then clamp the two parts flush and drive a self-tapping pocket screw. It is the fastest strong joint for face frames, plywood boxes and quick furniture. Kreg is the best-known brand, and using a Kreg pocket hole jig follows exactly these steps.

Pocket hole screw size chart

Thread: coarse for softwood, plywood, MDF and particle board; fine for hardwoods like oak and maple, which split with coarse threads.

Step by step

1. Set the jig for the board thickness, usually a sliding guide marked in inches.
2. Set the depth collar on the stepped drill bit, using the gauge on the jig for the same thickness.
3. Clamp the jig to the board, on its hidden face, 1–2 in from each end and every 6–8 in between.
4. Drill at full speed, pulling the bit out once or twice to clear the chips.
5. Clamp the two parts flush with a face clamp across the joint; pocket screws pull the board towards the hole, so the joint must be held.
6. Add glue on long-grain joints and drive the screw with a long square-drive bit until it is snug. Do not overdrive, especially in MDF.

Pocket holes in plywood, MDF and melamine

• Plywood: works very well; use coarse screws and glue.
• MDF and particle board: coarse screws hold, but less well, and overdriving strips the hole. For carcasses, confirmat screws or dowels are stronger.
• Melamine: glue does not stick to the coating; rely on the screws and keep the holes on unseen faces.

Where pocket holes are, and are not, a good idea

Good for face frames, attaching tops to aprons, cabinet carcasses in plywood, and joining parts where the hole is hidden. Avoid them where the hole will show on a visible face, in thin stock under 1/2 in, and in end grain that will carry a heavy load. For the other joints and when to use each, see types of wood joints.